YesThe Great Barrier Reef, stretching from southeast Queensland to the tip of Cape York, is the largest reef system in the world. It is made up of 3,000 individual reefs, spanning the seas of more than 70 traditional owner groups and covering an area the size of 70 million football fields, according to the Reef Commission. In recent years, these statistics have been joined by less favorable ones, including the highest ocean temperatures in 400 years and others that are becoming more frequent. Mass bleaching of corals.
Seeing the rocks in person makes all of these numbers come to life. Although rising ocean temperatures pose an existential threat to many coral reefs, there is considerable variation in the magnitude of reef bleaching, as well as underwater topography, water temperature, and marine life. However, most tourists settle in a port and see only a small fraction of this diversity.
But the surprisingly comfortable sleeper train between Brisbane and Cairns offers carbon-conscious travelers (and divers sticking to the recommended 24-hour window before flying) an easy way to take in all the majesty of the Rock without even getting up. from the ground.
The spirit of Queensland The 1,681 kilometer journey takes 25 hours and features three fixed-seat carriages and 35 convertible beds, each equipped with a seat screen, PowerPoint and amenities kit, with meals included in the ticket price. Its popularity means it's best to book a bed as far in advance as possible, and travelers can book tickets from all major cities. The train runs four times a week in each direction and this northern route avoids inconvenient stops in the middle of the night.
You won't confuse this trip with trips on luxury trains like The Khan or Indian Pacific – it's a way to get from A to B. Still, it's a comfortable experience with some thoughtful touches. The rails are fully reclined, which comfortably fits my 178cm frame, and are made by the staff every night, and the seatback screens are significantly larger than what you'd find on an airplane. Before the lights go out at 9:30 p.m., an attendant orders breakfast for the next morning and, shortly after, to watch the sunrise over the sugar cane fields, I start the day with something precious that few pilots enjoy: a shower hot with excellent water. Pressure.
Stop: Heron Island/Gladstone to see the southern reef
The southern Great Barrier Reef is full of sandy areas such as Heron Island, where Pisonia trees sway in the wind on fine sand beaches, and the reef begins just meters from the shore. It is an important habitat for migratory birds and nesting green turtles, which can be found in the water year-round.
“Snorkeling in the harbor is crazy,” dive instructor and master reef guide Elliott Peters says with a laugh. “During high tide, it's rare not to see a couple dozen turtles, a dozen sharks and 50 rays. The abundance and persistence of marine life means we have some of the best diving on the reef.
I try this the next day as it takes me past huge bombs where huge cone-headed Maori whales, colorfully spotted barramundi cod and sinister-looking moray eels lurk. The second half of the dive stop was spent enjoying a private viewing with a huge manta ray that looks like a flying carpet as it glides silently around a clearing.
While the impact of bleaching in some places is impossible to ignore, in others I see fields of rich caramel, bruised purple, and soft blue coral. “Peters estimates that 75% of Heron Island's coral bleached last summer, but areas that were completely white at the beginning of the year have returned to significant color within six months,” he says.
“It's not a cemetery, but it's in trouble, and we don't know how the rock will cope if these events continue to happen, so we have to help it.
Place to stay: Sharing the island with Capricornia Cays National Park and the pristine Reef marine research station, Heron Island Resort is a two-hour boat ride from Gladstone and has a relaxed, old-school vibe, with no drones or phone reception.
Stop: Townsville to Central Rocks
Boarding the Spirit of Queensland at Gladstone shortly after 8:30pm, I found my train line was already set up. The convertible seat looks like a capsule hotel cut in half, and I quickly fall asleep, waking up with just enough time to have breakfast and a shower before arriving in Townsville.
“The reefs are far from the beach,” says Paul Grokamp, master reef guide and owner of Adrenaline Snorkel & Dive. “That means higher operating costs and longer transit times, but less impact from coastal runoff means the reef is in better condition and we're usually the only boat out there.”
Townsville's waters are highlighted by a number of man-made sites, including the Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA), a series of underwater sculptures that opened a month before the pandemic. It's only a two and a half hour boat ride there and I'm impressed by how many corals, algae and anemones have joined the skeletal coral greenhouse in just four years. MOUA's location in the middle of John Brewer Reef makes it an ideal introductory dive, while more experienced divers can explore a site consistently named one of the best wreck dives in the world.
SS is located on the bare sandy beach. Yongala has become a sanctuary for marine life and during our dives we saw large schools of barracuda and trevally, numerous rays, sea snakes and pelagic and deep sea sharks. Deep purple, lime green, blue and orange corals. “Most people don't see a shipwreck on their first dive because they're too busy looking at all the marine life around them,” Crowcombe tells me with a smile. “That's why we're going to fall a second time.”
Place to stay: Overlooking the rock-strewn hillside, the eight-room tents sit close to the Nellie Bay terminal to hear the honking of boats, making it easy to meet dive boats on their way to the reef from Townsville. If you're looking for a budget option on the mainland, most campsites require a car, but Civic Guest House is conveniently located in the heart of Townsville.
Stop: Cairns to explore the Northern Rockies
Although the reef extends into the Torres Strait, most divers don't see anything north of Port Douglas. I stop on the train after the final six-and-a-half-hour stretch to Cairns, where dozens of competing operators are exploring the rocks in different ways to try to find an advantage.
“Most people who come want to learn more about the reef; What they're seeing, what's happening and how they can help,” says Leah Dawes, master reef guide and marine biologist. This means that it should be seen not only as an aesthetically pleasing tourist destination, but as a complex and dynamic ecosystem.
Before jumping into the water, Dawes explains how we will fill out two survey forms to record the presence of species that play an important role in the health of the reef and the composition of the seafloor. Both activities take attention away from fascinating megafauna and encourage me to explore the role that immediately desirable species play in incredibly complex reef ecosystems. Although I had seen hundreds of gray unicorn fish in a week of diving, this was the first time I had thought about the role these herbivores play in controlling the growth of algae and sponges that compete with corals for light.
“The goal is to go beyond looking at pretty fish and coral and see how the different pieces work together,” Dawes says. “Tourism was one of the main reasons it became a marine park in the 1970s, and we want to train the next generation of reef managers to protect the reef in the future.”
Place to stay: Overlooking Trinity Inlet from a quiet stretch of esplanade, Cairns Harborside Hotel opens its breakfast buffet at 6am, so there's no need to rush before a day of sightseeing, while sunsets include natural wines from the generous cellar. A cozy backpacker guesthouse located close to the city center, just opposite the Oasis commuter train station.
The author was a guest of Queensland Tourism and Events.
