Third-culture cooking with chef Jon Kung

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Our cookbook of the week is Kung Food: Chinese American Recipes from a Third-Culture Kitchen by Jon Kung, a Detroit-based chef raised in Hong Kong and Toronto.

Jump to the recipes: jerk chow mein, nasi goreng and Hong Kong chicken and waffles.

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Chef Jon Kung was on the restaurant track when he was forced to close his Detroit pop-up, Kung Food Market Studio. With his plans of opening a permanent spot on hold because of the pandemic, Kung did what many others did at the time — he started making cooking videos. Today, more than two million people follow his unique brand of third-culture cooking, which he showcases in his cookbook debut, Kung Food (Clarkson Potter, 2023).

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“It has provided me with such amazing access to people in a way that I never expected before,” says Kung. “They’re not actually eating food that I’m making with my hands. But in the form of this cookbook, in the form of my videos and the feedback that I get through places like Instagram, it’s just amazing to see people all over the world trying my food and listening to my stories, as well as my philosophies on food and relating to them in a way that I never really thought was possible.”

Moving from restaurant chef to content creator (and, as of March 2023, podcast host) wasn’t the first career change for Kung. After growing up in Hong Kong and Toronto, he graduated from Eastern Michigan University with a bachelor’s degree in theatre arts and creative writing and a law degree from the University of Detroit Mercy.

Kung taught himself how to cook in law school, using vintage cookbooks and YouTube and drawing on his memories to recreate some of the dishes he enjoyed as a child. “Teaching myself how to cook was the only creative outlet I could justify doing that took me away from my studies,” he recalls. Interning at the Wayne County prosecutor’s office while simultaneously hosting pop-ups, it came down to a decision. He chose food.

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Born in Los Angeles, Kung lived in the North York neighbourhood of Toronto from ages four to 17. “Being in Canada still allowed me access to (Chinese) food throughout my childhood that I don’t think a lot of people of my lived experience would have had access to,” he says. His family would get together and eat in Chinatown every Sunday, shop for groceries at Chinese markets and rent movies from Hong Kong video stores. Some recipes in Kung Food, such as Thunder Bay bon bon ribs with B-Z sauce, savoury-sweet garlic honey, beef and broccoli pot pie, and the Chinese-Canadian classic ginger beef, draw on these memories.

Kung finished high school in Hong Kong, surrounded by other third-culture kids — children who grew up influenced by their parents’ culture and their adopted one. (In Kung’s case, his parents’ native Hong Kong, Canada and the United States.)

Two decades later, sharing his third-culture cooking on social media resonated deeply with his followers, some of whom are first-generation immigrants or live in multicultural households. They could relate to his perspective but had never heard the term. “I got reactions like, ‘Oh, my gosh, this is my entire lived experience, but I didn’t know there was a name for it.’ Which TikTok is really great for — just having you discover things about yourself that you had no idea there were terms for.”

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Kung notes that though he’s far from the first to discuss the concept of the third culture (American sociologist Ruth Useem coined the term in the 1950s to describe expats living in India), he hadn’t seen anyone apply it to food and cooking before he began posting videos on social media four years ago.

“Third culture is the celebration of the in-between,” Kung writes. He sees it as ripe with possibility, influencing all aspects of culture, including art, design, fashion, food and literature. Where “fusion” cooking involves the superficial exploration of a cuisine, ingredient or technique for one specific audience, says Kung, third-culture cooking is inclusive. “It should be in a way that is recognizable to everyone. But also, different in a way — celebrating all of the cultures and including them.”

During the “American culinary renaissance” of the 2010s, Kung felt excluded from a movement of non-Chinese chefs exploring the ingredients and techniques of Chinese cuisine.

“I learned that what I should have been doing instead of taking on a gatekeeping approach was to actually do the same thing and open myself up to other culinary experiences, other culinary techniques, and incorporating that into my own food and truly embracing what being Chinese-American or Chinese-North American was — but perhaps (because of) that experience that I had in the 2010s, being a little more considerate, and giving credit to the different cultures that you’re learning from. Ultimately, chefs love a narrative behind a dish, and we love to tell a story behind the dish. And there is no story I could tell that is more interesting than the actual cultural origins or the cultural inspirations behind something that led me to create that dish.”

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Incorporating different cuisines into his own simply means finding common ground and similarities in how cultures enjoy specific foods or tastes. Often, this starts with the pantry, an “ultimate tool.” On Kung’s shelf, a jar of Hong Kong olive vegetable sits next to ghee, tahini and Nigerian palm oil. “A good pantry smells like the world,” he writes.

A chapter on broths, condiments, spice blends and an all-purpose egg follows the pantry section, then snacks, soups, stews and braises, noodles and dumplings, rice and congee, stir-fries, more time-consuming dishes (“Kung Fu Means ‘With Effort’”), desserts and a drink. By starting with Chinese cooking basics and then following them up with the creative things he has done with them, Kung hopes that readers will master these foundational recipes and incorporate them into their cultural foods in ways that he could never do.

As important as food is to cultural identity, aspects of it can change over time. This shift doesn’t dilute its importance, but it does make it different, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, says Kung.

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“A lot of times when it comes to our cultural foods, there is a habit of being very protective of those foods as they were at any specific given point in time. But just like how our communities change, so can the food. And that isn’t to say that we shun all past iterations of the things we love. But at the same time, we should be more open to the changes, especially when the foods themselves can mirror how our communities are changing — becoming more diverse, becoming more integrated and being more open with each other.”

JERK CHOW MEIN

Serves: 4

2 bunches scallions, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2 Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, stemmed and seeded (use gloves or be very careful not to touch your eyes after handling!)
1 thumb-size piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
2 tbsp sweet paprika
1 tbsp light brown sugar
2 tsp freshly ground allspice
2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 tsp ground or freshly grated nutmeg
8 oz (227 g) protein (thinly sliced pork loin, beef tenderloin, chicken thigh or firm tofu)
12 oz (340 g) fresh chow mein noodles (see note)
Neutral oil
8 oz (227 g) sturdy vegetables (such as cauliflower, broccoli, baby bok choy or snow peas), cut into small pieces

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Step 1

In a food processor, combine the scallions, garlic, Scotch bonnets, ginger, paprika, brown sugar, allspice, thyme, salt, black pepper, and
nutmeg and blend to a paste. Set aside. If using meat as opposed to tofu, coat it lightly with about a tablespoon of the jerk sauce and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.

Step 2

Blanch or cook the noodles according to the package directions (see note); drain and set aside. Coat a wok with neutral oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add the meat or tofu and the vegetables and stir-fry until the vegetables start to char and the meat is almost cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes, depending on your wok’s heat. Add the noodles and the jerk sauce and toss until everything is evenly mixed and coated, and the meat is fully cooked through, about a minute longer. Serve.

Note: Fresh (i.e., not dried) chow mein noodles are generally sold in two forms: steamed or raw. If they say steamed on the package, and/or have no cooking directions, they just need to be blanched in boiling water for 30 seconds and drained before they’re pan-fried in your dish. If the package says raw, then follow the cooking instructions on the package before pan-frying.

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NASI GORENG

Serves: 2 to 4

2 tbsp neutral oil
3 garlic cloves, grated
1 or 2 bird’s-eye chilies or other hot red chilies, thinly sliced
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 12 oz/340 g total), cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) -thick strips
4 tbsp kecap manis (sweet soy sauce)
Kosher salt
1 medium white or yellow onion, diced
2 tsp shrimp paste (preferably Thai shrimp paste; I use the Twin Chickens brand)
4 cups day-old rice
2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp MSG

Optional toppings: 4 fried eggs, thinly sliced scallions, diced tomatoes, diced cucumbers, fried garlic, fried shallots, lime wedges

Step 1

Heat a wok over high heat, then pour in 1 tablespoon of the oil and heat until shimmering. Add the garlic and chilies and quickly stir-fry. Add the chicken and toss to coat, then add 1 tablespoon of the kecap manis plus a pinch or two of salt. Stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until the chicken is almost completely cooked through. Transfer the chicken to a plate and return the wok to the heat.

Step 2

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and the onion and stir, scraping the bottom and sides of the wok to pull up any sticky bits from cooking the chicken. Add the shrimp paste and the remaining 3 tablespoons kecap manis. Stir well and add the rice, tossing to break up any lumps. Stir-fry until the rice is warmed through, about 2 to 3 minutes. Taste the rice and season with salt and MSG, then return the chicken to the wok and cook for 1 minute more, or until the chicken is fully cooked through. Place the fried rice on a serving platter, garnish with the optional toppings of your choice, and serve.

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HONG KONG CHICKEN AND WAFFLES

Serves: 4

Fried chicken:
1/3 cup light soy sauce
1/3 cup Shaoxing wine
3 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp fish sauce
2 tbsp kosher salt
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp freshly ground white pepper
1 1/2 to 2 lb (680 to 907 g) boneless skin-on chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces
Neutral oil, for frying
2 cups potato starch
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 large eggs

Waffles:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 tbsp custard powder (available online)
1 tbsp nonfat milk powder
1 tbsp tapioca starch
2 tsp baking powder
4 large eggs
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus more for the waffle maker
2 tsp pure vanilla extract
Szechuan-Spiced Maple Syrup (recipe follows), for serving

Step 1

Marinate the chicken: In a large bowl, combine the soy sauce, wine, sugar, and fish sauce. Add the chicken, stir to coat, and refrigerate
for 30 minutes. Remove the chicken from the marinade and transfer to a paper towel-lined plate, then return it to the refrigerator to air dry for 30 minutes.

Step 2

Fry the chicken: Preheat the oven to 200F (93C).

Step 3

Fill a heavy saucepan, wok, or Dutch oven with neutral oil to a depth of 1 1/2 (4 cm) inches and heat over medium-high heat to 350F (177C) (or set your deep fryer to 350F/177C). Have a paper towel-lined baking sheet nearby.

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Step 4

Place the potato starch in a medium bowl and the flour in a second medium bowl. Mix 1 tablespoon of the salt, 1 1/2 teaspoons of the black pepper, and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the white pepper into each bowl. In a small bowl, beat the eggs.

Step 5

Bread the chicken using a dry-wet-dry sequence: Working in batches, dredge the chicken in the flour mixture, then coat it in egg, then dredge it in the potato starch mixture. Gently place the breaded chicken in the hot oil (do not overcrowd) and fry until the chicken is golden and the internal temperature reaches 165F (74C), about 3 to 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon or spider to transfer the chicken to the paper towels to drain, and repeat with the remaining chicken. Once you’re finished with the whole batch of chicken, give it a quick double fry to really get them crispy, about 1 to 3 minutes. Set them all on a tray and keep the fried chicken warm in the oven until you’re ready to serve it.

Step 6

Make the waffles: In a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugar, custard powder, milk powder, tapioca starch and baking powder. In a separate medium bowl, combine the eggs, milk, 2 tablespoons oil and vanilla. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and whisk just to combine.

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Step 7

Heat a waffle maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Using a pastry brush, dab a bit of oil onto the plates of the waffle maker (every one I’ve come across has a nonstick coating, so avoid sprays, as those don’t work well on nonstick surfaces). Add enough batter to fill the iron per the manufacturer’s instructions and flip, if necessary (an eggette maker will require you to flip). Use the first waffle to gauge how much batter is needed to fill the iron going forward. Cook the waffles until golden and keep them warm in the oven until serving. Divide waffles and chicken evenly among serving plates and pass the syrup.

SZECHUAN-SPICED MAPLE SYRUP

Makes: about 2 cups

2 cups pure maple syrup
1/4 cup Szechuan peppercorns
1 to 2 cups dried Szechuan chilies (or any fresh hot red chili), chopped (quantity depends on desired spice level)

Step 1

In a small saucepan, bring the maple syrup to a simmer over medium heat. Add the peppercorns and cook for 5 minutes, reducing the heat to low if it looks like it will boil over. Add the chilies and cook, tasting every 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches your desired spice level; it will become spicier the longer it simmers. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a heat-safe container (discard the solids). Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 3 months. Warm before serving.

Recipes and photos reprinted with permission from Kung Food: Chinese American Recipes from a Third-Culture Kitchen by Jon Kung ©2023. Photographs ©2023 by Johnny Miller. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House.

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