Northumberland back to normal: new rail line opens one of England's worst counties | Holidays in Northumberland

YesNorthumberland's attractive coastal towns, wild countryside and inland villages will be even more accessible with a new railway line from Newcastle to Ashington. Opening in December. Tyne and Wear Metro is receiving its first new trains in more than 40 years, making it much easier for visitors without a car to travel around the county.

Reaching Newcastle by train from the south offers a spectacular aerial tour of the Tyne Valley, crossed by a narrow row of seven bridges and densely lined with buildings spilling over the banks.

Tyne Bridge, Newcastle. Photo: Tom McAtee/Getty Images

Although the late Councilor D Dan Smith, nicknamed Mr Newcastle, demolished historic buildings as part of the redevelopment campaign of the 1960s and 1970s, the town center was undoubtedly shaped by his vision. Bold, futuristic urban flyovers, subway bridges and suspended brutalist walkways.

Over the decades, start at the Literary and Philosophical Society (“The Lit & Bill”) for tea and read today's newspapers, then at the Baltic Center for Contemporary Arts (across the Tyne in Gateshead) for world-class displays and finally at Quayside to watch the sunset. drinks on the river bank. Near Newcastle University is the Civic Centre, a triumph of 1960s modernism and home to Newcastle City Council, which hosts an annual four-day event. The novelty is the music festival, in which artists from all corners of the planet participate.

The Literary and Philosophical Society of Newcastle upon Tyne (Litt & Bill). Photo: Gordon Bell / Alamy

Nearby Ridley Place is popular with students and fosters its own lunchtime atmosphere with The Little Dumpling House, a Venezuelan deli and churros restaurant, and sandwich bar Frankie and Tony's. Alternatively, head south inland to Grainger Market and discover a symbiosis of low-key cafes and fabulous international food stalls. Back in the Central Station area, the mosaic tube is located on the railway arch. They serve a selection of craft beers, they also have a pub quiz on Wednesdays and live trains honking over the A station departure board.

From Newcastle, part of the metropolitan district of Tyne and Wear and the historic county of Northumberland, the Northumberland Line will soon provide passenger services to six former mining towns that have seen long-distance freight trains fail for decades. One of these is the port town of Blyth, best known outside the region as the model for Boris Johnson's compensation scheme, but less known for its fine sandy beaches backed by impressive reclaimed dunes. The new Ashington station will be just a few miles from Newpickin-by-the-Sea, where the pub names refer to the town's former coastal industries. The Coble (named after a flat-bottomed fishing boat used in the area) is a cozy two-bar pub with a log fire and outdoor seating with sea views.

Blythe Beach. Photo: PA/Alamy Images

Between Blythe and the village of Seaton Delaval, the railway line makes a sharp turn inland. 1862 Hartley Colliery disaster kills 204 men and boys. Many pubs in the area have names linked to mining, such as Brockwell Seam and Keel Row, a local folk song about keelers who carried coal from the river banks to ships in shallow draft boats (keelers).

North of Blyth, the Line forks, a branch line leading west to Morpeth, a historic market town. The first bagpipe museum in the UK. This unique collection, including Northumbrian pipes and instruments from around the world, is housed in Morpeth Chantry, a beautiful 13th century Grade I listed building set on a gentle bend around the town towards the River Wanspec.

From here the East Coast Main Line runs into the northern woods of Northumberland, at one point running along the edge of a cliff for about 10 miles, the ground apparently disappearing beneath the tracks. The stunning sea views to the right contrast with the green expanse of countryside to the left. The approach to Berwick-upon-Tweed, at the northern tip of Northumberland, offers a view of one of the best-preserved castle walls in Europe, a legacy of around a dozen border conflicts between England and Scotland over the centuries .

Avoid advertising in previous newsletters

There are large areas of Northumberland that are not served by the train, but it is worth getting off the tracks. In Cheviot Hills, swim wild under an 18-metre waterfall. At Plunge Pool before returning home to Rothbury and Crockside south of Linhope Spout. This pioneering Victorian mansion, Britain's original smart home, is packed with vintage inventions and gadgets. In Hexham, take an ancient walk along Hadrian's Wall to the spectacular Sycamore Gap, where the sycamore tree gets its name. Showing signs of regrowth after last year's weeding. Nearby, Tilston Physiological Park is a botanical journey through 700 species of medicinal plants, and in Allendale, the Museum of Classic Science Fiction offers an incredible Doctor Who collection restored and restored over 30 years.

The main line passes through several coastal towns and villages, including Seahouse, a working fishing port and home. The Old Ship Inn is a clear commitment to the traditions of the region with its antique furniture and nautical decor. Another coastal gem dedicated to preserving local heritage is a 170-year-old living and billowing smokehouse that sells smoked herring and salmon to walk-in customers in Craster.

Linhope spout. Photo: Gary Colton/The Observer

Our coastal towns have long been popular tourist centres, starting with the local coal communities and flocking to the cities during the summer holidays, when all the mines close for two weeks. Nowadays, overtourism has caused the displacement of local people in some areas, so overnight visitors may consider staying in established hotels, hostels or guesthouses to avoid exacerbating the problem. The lovely Park Lodge, for example, in Whitley Bay, is run by Liz, her daughter and their friendly dogs.

Whitley Bay, once one of the region's most popular seaside resorts, fell into disrepute after the rise of international package holidays. The city still suffers from decades of institutional neglect, and its revival can be accomplished by new trains that take people from the city to the coast. However, many new venues are already investing in the area as part of a growing nightlife scene. Visit The Library, a stylish new cocktail bar, and Baba Yaga's House of Fine Wine and its walls filled with local art. On the same street is the Laurels Theater, a cozy place that hosts comedians, poets and DJs. Ultimately, it is a grassroots academy producing the next generation of local artists.

While going off the beaten track has always had its appeal, Britain's relationship with its railways is changing and much-needed investment is opening up a new kind of adventure. To see the best of Newcastle and Northumberland – wild landscapes, nightlife, historic treasures and recent history – travelers should always be able to do so and get off at every stop.